Sandwich: A day for medievalists

By Jonathan H. Jones

Sandwich is among the most medieval towns in England. It is located in Kent, on River Stour, and boasts a population of 5,000 (known as Portsmen). The town still has many original medieval buildings, including medieval public houses, gates in the old town walls, churches, and alms-houses. The place-name - 'Sandwich' - is first attested in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. The suffix -wich comes from the Anglo-Saxon -wīc, meaning a dwelling or fortified place where trade takes place.

It is also one of the Cinque Ports. This confederation of ports was originally formed for military and trade purposes, but is now ceremonial. The towns lie on the western shore of the English Channel where the crossing to the European continent is narrowest. Originally, as many as 40 ports had these duties, but Sandwich remains one of the five core originals. During the High Middle Ages, the Cinque Ports were right on the front line of the endless conflicts with France, and were required to supply ships to the English King.

Today, Sandwich is located about 2 miles (3 km) from the sea. Nearby Sandwich Bay is home to a large nature reserve and two world-class golf courses. It also regularly holds markets and cultural events.

On 28 August 1457, the French raided the Kent coast burning a large part of Sandwich. 4,000 men from Hon fleur looted the town and murdered the mayor. It remains a tradition that the current Mayor of Sandwich wears a black mourning robe in remembrance of this gruesome event.

During my recent visit, the Sandwich Medieval Centre on Quay Street on the Stour was a highlight. Filled with medieval armour and artefacts that you are allowed to touch and try on, the museum is a Living History experience staffed with knowledgeable people dressed in medieval clothes and well-versed in the history of the town.

While there, I also came across quite a bit of armour, bows, swords, and other implements from the time for reenactors. I tried on a padded steel helmet and a longbow. The helmet was lighter and more comfortable than I had anticipated. I had wondered how it would be possible to operate as an archer in a pitched battle with a heavy lump of metal on your head, but it was a lot less problematic than I had imagined.

In addition, the Centre is currently reconstructing a medieval cog, The Nicholas, which was used for trade and military purposes. At the naval Battle of Sandwich in 1217, the English defeated a French fleet using similar vessels, ending the First Barons War.

While there, I also learned that the Sandwich Guildhall Museum houses a copy of the Magna Carta and the Charter of the Forest from 1300. Other exhibits include Roman and medieval artefacts. Admission is free as is access to the Tudor courtroom.

There are also several medieval sites worth a visit. St Thomas's Hospital dates to the 14th century. It honours St Thomas Becket who was martyred in nearby Canterbury in 1170. The Church of St Peter has Norman origins and later medieval additions. The parish church of St Clement dates mainly from the 12th and 14th centuries. St Mary’s Church was built on the site of a convent by a cousin to King Ecgbert of Kent in Saxon times. As Sandwich shows, this part of Kent is filled with medieval history and certainly worth a visit!