How to get 'a head' with Epic ECW Part 2

In my last blog, I discussed the Epic Pike and Shotte range and speculated how the range's utility could be expanded with the odd head swap. Plastic is easier to convert than metal, so changing parts of the model including head swaps are fairly easy to do.

A note on design. Some gamers have raised some interesting points on the sprues, noting that the shotte is tightly packed and, in reality, they'd be more dispersed. I believe Warlord were aiming to recreate the look of the battles as drawn by contemporary artists at the time, such as Streeter's Plan of the Battle of Naseby 1645. Their blocks do give that effect. 

The only real drawback I see with the plastic sprues is there will be some repetition. Gamers are bound to use the same models over and over. However, this can be easily overcome with a few head swaps to make each model and therefore each unit look unique. I have used the heads from Peter Pig to customise my plastics; you can, of course, swap heads between the warlord plastics themselves. 

The Peter Pig range has eleven different types of head for the ECW, plus a bare head and bandaged/wounded head. Size wise, they are a fraction bigger than the Warlord ones, but this is hardly noticeable close-up, never mind at three feet on the tabletop. The conversion could not be easier, cut off the old head, drill out the torso and insert the new head.

Conversion is easier on the individual models, such as the cavalry and skirmishers, but it is possible with the rank and file, as long as care is taken. One slip might cost a pike or the end of a musket. The end results are very good. 

Conversions are also kind of addictive, once you pop (a head off or two), you can't stop! One piece of useful advice is to use a drill which is the size of the 'stalk' of the Peter Pig head, which I think was 0.8mm. dab a bit of superglue, position the head as you want and you're done. 

Now there's one final thing to do. Get these painted! Expect updates on my progress in future blogs.